7 The Explorer Pass

The Explorer Pass has been created by « Historic Scotland », which is an agency of the Scottish government. In is in charge of historical monuments (about 360), and it is an equivalent of “English Heritage” in England.

  

When I went to Scotland a few years ago, I first went to Edinburgh Castle and I saw advertising for the “Explorer Pass”. Though it is quite expensive, this Pass can be extremely practical if you decide to travel across Scotland, because it offers free admittance for 78 the properties of “Historic Scotland”. Its price depends on the number of days you plan to travel around Scotland.

For example, the 3 days Pass costs 22 pounds. The 7 days Pass costs 37 pounds, and the 10 days Pass costs 47 pounds. Of course, it is cheaper for children (less than 15) and concessions (students, unemployed and people who are more than 60). On each site, you can ask for a stamp to be applied on your Pass.

What’s more, I you want to visit only a small part of Scotland, you can purchase a regional Pass, for Orkney, the Borders, or Dumfries and Galloway.

 

You can find more information on this website : http://www.historicscotland.gov.uk/index/places/explorer.htm

6 About the One o’clock gun at Edinburgh’s castle

This gun is a time signal, which fires every day at one o’clock in the afternoon, from the half moon battery at Edinburgh’s Castle. It has been installed there for the ships coming to Edinburgh by the Firth of Forth. As a lighthouse, the gun could be heard from very retired places, and the noise indicated the distance from Edinburgh to those who hear it.
The type of the gun has changed since its establishment in 1861, but since 2001, the gun is a L118 Light gun.

As said before, the gun is used every day, except on Sunday, Good Friday and Christmas day. It is fired by the 105th Regiment Royal Artillery. As you can see and hear in the video below, the gun is nowadays a famous tourist attraction. The present gunner is Jamie (the “Canon”) Shannon.

5 Spynie : medieval architecture

Spynie, near Elgin, is unfortunately not very well-known, because it is a small castle. I came here in the first place thanks to a heritage program “Historic Scotland” ; the Explorer Pass. There is little to say about this castle, but it is for me a way to remind you that medieval castles were not only defensive buildings. As in Spynie, castles were also residential places, or mansions. Spynie was indeed the seat of the bishops of Morray, in Northern Scotland. It was the center of an important medieval town, even if there are no trace of this glorious past.

Nothing remains of the 13th century bishop’s fortified residence in Spynie. We can assume that these earlier buildings were made of timber, that’s why they have left no trace at all. Nowadays, visitors can still see walls of the 14^th century.

The most interesting part of the castle is David’s tower, named after the bishop who decided its construction (David Stewart) It is one of the largest tower houses in Scotland and measures 19 by 13,5 meters and 22 meters in height. It contained five floors and a vaulted basement.

 

The hall was the principal public room in the tower. In this room, the bishops entertained their guests and may also have held ecclesiastical ceremonies. The four upper floors were arranged with a large undivided central space, from which access could be made to a number of small chambers or closets set inside the walls. Each main room had a small fireplace, not really sufficient to heat it properly.

4 Stirling Castle

Stirling castle represent a symbol of the strong Scottish mind around the world. It is set in the very heart  of Scotland, standing high on a sharp rock. For ages, its spectacular position allowed its inhabitants to control the comings and goings across Scotland. Since the 12^th century, kings and queens like to spend time at Stirling castle, but this fortress has also been useful during war time.

Hest important moment of the history of Stirling castle starts at the end of the 13th century. The accidental death of king Alexander the 3^rd led the country to a crisis. The king of England, Edward the 1rst, was asked to choose the new ruler of Scotland. He chose John Balliol. But when Balliol refused to help Edward in his war against France in 1295, the English king started a punitive strike against Scotland, and Stirling castle was lost.

But at the end of 1297, the Scottish army, led by William Wallace and Andrew Murray took position ob Abbey Craig, a mountain that overhangs Stirling, and its only bridge, across the river Forth. They waited there for days, knowing well that the English troops had to cross the bridge one day or another. Finally, on September the 11^th, they attacked. The English cavalry was having a hard time crossing the narrow bridge they the Scottish troops swooped down on them. Most of them died within minutes.

This story has been told in 1995 thanks to the Hollywood movie “Braveheart”, which devotes itself to showing the bravery of William Wallace. Though fictionalized, this portrait is considered to be accurate.

3 Dunrobin Castle

Dunrobin castle is not only famous for its beautiful architecture. It is known worldwide because it is the seat of the Clan Sutherland, one of the most powerful clans.

It is the most northerly castle in Scotland and has 189 rooms. Its architecture makes it look like a French castle, but it has been built by an English architect, Sir Charles Barry, best known for the rebuilt of the Houses of Parliament.

Dunrobin Castle is on situated the east coast of the Highlands overlooking the Moray Firth, just next to the villages of Golspie.

The first architecture which took place in Dunrobin was a Medieval fort. The name of Dunrobin comes from an Scottish Gaelic name ; dun. It means "fort" or "city", and has given the names of London, Donegal, and even Lyon / Lugdunum. The name "robin", comes from of the earls of the castle ; Robert, 6th Earl.

It is only in the 17th century that the place saw the construction of a manor. The Jacobites invaded the castle in 1745 because the Dukes of Sutherland supported the English government. Finally, the castle was transformed into a "Scottish Baronial" type of architecture in 1845. Since 1973, the house is opened to the public, but remains a private house nonetheless, because some rooms are still used by the Countess of Sutherland and her family.

And this is precisely the most interesting point about Dunrobin castle. It has been the seat of Clan Sutherland since the 13th century. The motto of Clan Sutherland is Sans Peur, and appears on the Clan Crest. It is truly the heart of the clan, which is represented all around the world, especially in Northern America. The current chief of the clan is Elizabeth Sutherland, Countess of Sutherland. One of the castle's rooms is occupied by objects and books about the Clan. It keeps the registers of the Clan, indicating the names of all its members. Many Sutherland families come especially to Scotland in order to see those records. Unfortunately, I cannot show you a photo of it because it is forbidden to take pictures inside the castle (because it is a private house).

 The gardens :

The main inspiration for these gardens is Versailles in France. They were created by Sir Charles Barry. It practically did not change since then. Every month, the head gardener of the castle publishes a review from the gardens on the castle's website (http://www.dunrobincastle.co.uk/gardens-and-grounds/index.htm).

Daily falconry demonstrations are organised in the gardens. The birds can be seen in a devoted place of the gardens. There is also a small museum showing the trophy heads of the animals shot by family members on safaris.

2 Eilean Donan Castle

You may know this castle, for it has been used as a set for numerous films and TV shows, such as "The New Avengers", "Elisabeth, the Golden Age", or "Maid of Honor".

Here is a video decribing the castle's setting and history ;

And here is the transcription of the video :

For nearly a thousand years, the fortifications on Eilean Donan have survived Viking invasions, internal warfare, Jacobite sieges and destruction, by a government warship.

Eilean Donan Castle is located on the rugged west coasts of Scotland, at the meeting point of three sea locks, by the picturesque village of Dornie.

Standing besides, the main tourist route to the Isle of Skye, it is the most photographed castle of Scotland. But its current appearance bellies its turbulent history, and the fact that it was a ruin for almost 200 years. The name “Eilean Donan” or “Donan’s Island” dates back to the 7^th century, when an alleged force stood on the spot. In 1220, a strong castle was built here by King Alexander the 2^nd to deter Viking invasion. Ownership passed to the Mackenzies of Seaforth who appointed their allies, the Macraes, as Constables. In 1539, a long-standing feud between the Mackenzies and the MacLeod of Dunvegan came to ahead, when Donald Gorm MacDonald claimed the title “Lord of the Isles” and attacked the castle, with fifty galleons of war. MacDonald was famously killed by a single arrow, fired by Duncan Macrae, valiantly protecting the castle. Ever after, clan Macrae has been referred to, as “Mackenzie’s shirt of mail”.

In 1715, when the castle was garrisoned by Spanish troops on behalf of the British government, it was successfully besieged by the Jacobite Mackenzies. But in 1719, seeking revenge, the government send warship to bombard the castle, leaving it in ruins. Eilean Donan lay in ruins, for nearly 200 hundred years, until, in 1911, it was bought by a Macrae, who started its restoration. The reconstruction including the first bridge to the Island took 21 years. Then in 1983, the castle was handed over the clan MacRae Trust, which still looks after it.

Today, this most scenic of Scottish castles houses a notable collection of Jacobite, Mackenzie and MacRae memorabilia and a charming domestic setting. It is well for visit.

1 The Palace of Holyroodhouse

For my first article on this blog, I must give honour where honour is due. Indeed, Holyroodhouse, located in Edinburgh, is known worldwide as the residence of Her Majesty the Queen Elisabeth II in Scotland.

As that is the reason why is doesn’t hold the title of “castle”. A “castle” is a stronghold, built in order to protect a territory from invasion. A “palace” is usually a luxurious building, created only for the entertainment of its owner. 

Located in a magnificent setting, at the foot of the Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s seat (an extinct volcano), Holyrood Palace had been built next to an Augustinian abbey by James IV between 1501 and 1505.

But the Palace as we know it was built in the 1670’s by Charles II, following its earlier damage by fire. The Palace was transformed from a fortress into a large residence thanks to Scottish architect Sir William Bruce.

Famous occupants

One of the most famous residents of the Palace of Holyroodhouse is Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived there from her return to Scotland in 1561 to her forced abdication in 1567. She married both of her Scottish husbands in the palace: Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley and James Hepbrun. She also witnessed the murder of her secretary David Rizzio, in her private apartments.

Just after the French Revolution, King George III allowed Louis XVI's younger brother and future Charles X of France, the Comte d'Artois to live at Holyrood, where he took advantage of the abbey sanctuary to avoid his creditors.

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II has a great deal of affection for Holyroodhouse, since her husband is Duke of Edinburgh. Symbolically, the palace is located in front of the Scottish Parliament…

It is said that the ghost of the witch Agnes Sampson, who died in 1592, still haunts the Palace.

The Great Gallery

This is the largest room of the Palace. It connects the King and the Queen apartments together. Hung on the walls are a series of portraits. They represent the monarchs of Scotland. It has been used for the election of Scottish delegates to Westminster, and also as a Ball Room. Today, it is regularly used by the Queen for receptions such as the investiture of Scottish recipients of honour.

Holyrood Abbey

At the north-east corner of the Palace survive the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. Legends associate its founding with a king’s vision of a cross between a stag’s antlers. The abbey was destroyed after the raids of English armies in 1544. The roof collapsed in 1768 and it has been left as a romantic ruin since then.

The Gardens

Even though the Palace is located in a beautiful natural landscape, its immediate surroundings are perfectly controlled. The 10 acres garden today provides a magnificent setting for the Queen’s garden party, held annually in July for 8000 people. Next to the gardens is the Queen's Gallery (opened in 2002) which displays works of art from the Royal Collection.